Ball pythons are calm, curious snakes that make great companions. They’re hardy animals, easy to handle, and full of personality. Still, even the healthiest python can face issues if its setup isn’t quite right. Most issues stem from small care details like low humidity, irregular feeding, or inconsistent heat. The good news is that nearly all of them are preventable.
This guide covers the most common ball python health problems, what to look for, and how to keep your snake thriving. Whether you’re starting out or adding new morphs to your collection, a few smart habits can make all the difference.
1. Respiratory Infections
One of the most common issues with ball pythons is a respiratory infection. It often happens when their tank is too cool or damp. You might hear a faint wheeze, see bubbles near the nose, or notice your snake keeping its mouth open to breathe.
The fix is usually simple so double-check the setup. The warm side should be about 88°F, and the cooler side around 78°F. Keep humidity in the 50–60% range and make sure there’s steady airflow. Many keepers use radiant heat panels to keep things stable and safe.
2. Mites and Parasites
Mites are tiny black specks that hide under scales or around the eyes. They make snakes itchy and restless. If you see your python soaking for long stretches, mites might be the reason.
Preventing them is easier than treating them. Clean the cage often, change bedding regularly, and always quarantine new snakes before adding them to your collection.
External mites aren’t the only concern, internal parasites can also affect your python. Weight loss, dull skin, or poor appetite can point to an internal infection. A vet check and stool test catch internal parasites before they become serious.
3. Shedding Issues
When humidity is too low, ball pythons have a hard time shedding. You might see patches of old skin or cloudy eye caps left behind. To help, add a humid hide lined with damp moss. It should stay soft and hold moisture well to create the right microclimate for shedding.
A clean water bowl large enough for soaking can also aid shedding. After each shed, check your python to make sure the old skin came off in one piece.
4. Mouth Rot
Mouth rot, or stomatitis, starts as a small sore and can spread fast if ignored. Look for redness, swelling, or thick yellow spots around the mouth. A snake with mouth rot may refuse to eat or drool slightly.
Keeping things clean goes a long way toward prevention. Avoid feeding live prey that might bite, and always remove leftover food. Consult a reptile vet promptly if symptoms appear. Feeding frozen-thawed meals is safer and helps reduce injuries that can lead to infection.
5. Inclusion Body Disease (IBD)
IBD is rare in ball pythons but serious. It affects the nervous system and can cause wobbling, twisting, or loss of balance which has no cure.The best defense is quarantine.
Keep new reptiles separate for at least 90 days, and don’t share tools or cages between animals. Clean everything before reuse. Animals are raised in clean, closed systems to reduce exposure to pathogens.
6. Scale Rot
Scale rot is caused by constant dampness or poor hygiene. The belly scales might look darker, swollen, or soft to the touch.
Change bedding often and avoid standing water. Keep the cage warm and dry with steady airflow. Even heat sources, like heat panels, reduce cold, damp spots where bacteria can thrive.
7. Feeding Refusal
Ball pythons sometimes skip meals before a shed, during breeding season, or when stressed. Most of the time, it’s nothing serious.
Check the basics temperature, humidity, and hiding spots. Make sure the snake feels safe before feeding.
Feeding is easier when starting with a healthy, well-fed snake. Choosing from a trusted source with quality Ball Python for sale options helps ensure good feeding habits from the start.
8. Obesity
It’s easy to overfeed a ball python. They don’t need meals as often as many people think. Early signs of obesity include a round, puffy body or fat rolls near the tail. To prevent this, feed one prey item about as wide as the snake’s midsection.
Younger snakes eat more often; adults usually eat every 10 to 14 days. Keep a feeding log so you can track habits over time. Healthy pythons look muscular and firm, not bloated or soft.
9. Egg Retention
Female pythons sometimes hold onto eggs instead of laying them. You’ll notice swelling, discomfort, or restlessness.
Offer a nesting box and keep stress low during breeding season. If the eggs don’t pass, call a reptile vet immediately. Quick action makes all the difference.
Healthy Ball Pythons
A strong start is everything. Buying from a trusted breeder gives you a healthy snake with solid genetics and good feeding habits. Many healthy, captive-bred ball pythons are available, including a variety of popular morphs, ready for new collections.
The collection includes countless Ball Python Morphs for sale, from bold Clowns to elegant Blue Eyed Leucistics and bright Dreamsicles. Every animal ships with a live arrival guarantee and full lineage info.
Wilbanks also offers reptile care supplies, heat panels, moss, and incubation trays to help keepers maintain ideal environments year-round.
Final Thoughts
Most ball python health issues come down to husbandry. Keep things clean, stay consistent with temperature and humidity, and check your snake often. Little habits like spot-cleaning daily and monitoring humidity make a big difference.
A healthy start also matters and dependable supplies make care easier. Visit Wilbank Reptiles, whose decades of experience in breeding and care help keepers at all levels maintain healthy, thriving snakes.
